Finding foundation and concealers to suit darker skin is extremely hard, black skin includes a range of skin tones, if the colour is wrong you end up with an ashy grey look. The same thing still stands for light skins white skin tones include pink or yellow and if the tone is to dark you may end up looking orange. Generally the rule is that lighter brown skin has a yellowish undertone whereas a darker brown skin has a combination of yellow and red, very pale skin has pink undertones and medium to tanned skin has yellow undertones. Foundation for darker tones must not be too pink or contain too much titanium dioxide; these will give the skin an ashen look.
Lighter skins do sometimes suffer from dryness; this can easily be combated by using a heavy cream underneath the foundation or using a moisturising mouse foundation and avoiding powders. Dark tones don’t seem to suffer from dry skin as lighter tones do. Darker skin reflects light differently giving off a kind of luminosity; this does not mean it is oily. Excess shine can be controlled by using oil free bases and powders. New light reflecting pigments in some foundations and powders will also help cover the shine, but be careful of very matt bases as they can turn the skin grey.
Foundation should be tested on lighter skin first if you suffer from hyper pigmentation. You should choose a colour in-between the pigmentations. There are concealers that cover darker spots, these should be matched to your normal skin tone and worn under the foundation. It is important to remember that your skin tone changes with the seasons; you may need a darker foundation in the summer than in the winter. To set the foundation, use either a translucent or bronzing powder and if you’re out for a night on the town spray a little hairspray over it.
When shopping for make-up that suits your complexion it is important to shop around. Big department stores such as Selfridges, Debenhams and House of Frasier have counters which cater for darker skin tones as well as light. Some of these are Becca, Bobby Brown, Fashion fair, Iman, Illamasqua, Mac, Black up and K Beverly Knights new brand, which came out in September 2010. Most of these counters offer free advice, foundation fittings and sometimes make-over’s, use them. Don’t buy the first product you try, as you may find something better by another brand. Don’t buy without checking the foundation in daylight, as the lighting may alter the tone, walk out of the shop and check it still looks good. Request samples so you can try at home before spending your student loan. If you like a foundation that you tried look for it on-line as it may be cheaper.
If you have dark skin you can pull off stronger make-up looks than light skin. You can get away with wearing dark colours that only make light skins look paler. Bronze, shimmery beiges and deep browns, as well as olive and emerald green, sapphire blue, plum and pastel shades can be good eye colours. Metallic’s compliment the natural luminosity of dark skin, Warm light brown peach to cinnamon tones will soften and define cheeks. Deep berry shades of lipsticks suit darker skins perfectly. Lighter skins should go for light natural pastel shades pinks and light golds and silvers compliment the undertones and don’t make skin look paler. Peach or pinks should be used as a blusher on the apples of the cheeks. Blood red lipsticks can be worn to give a striking look on paler skins as well as pink shades. Black mascara and eyeliner highlight the eyelashes of all skin types also it is important to remember it is either heavy eyes or lips, never both.
Big brands such as Dior, Estee Lauder and Clinique are starting to tap in to the dark skincare market and are currently working on new ranges like Lancôme’s Colour Id range. These brands will be a little more expensive but can be tested in store with a make-up artist.
Long-time brands like MaxFactor, Maybelline, L’Oreal Paris and Revlon have also started to cater for darker skins although their range only goes to a dark cappuccino, and these are hard to find. A new brand however has emerged alongside these older brands called Sleek this is manufactured specifically for dark skins. These brands are cheaper than the others but you can’t try them in store or get advice. They are good if you’re already familiar with your colour and don’t need to check your shade. This can also be said for brands which are currently only on sale on-line like Mary Kay and Black Opal.
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