Best Bath Bits

By Michelle Allan for The 'I' on Saturday

Sanctuary Relaxing bath oil:

Creates a silky vail of oil on the top of the water making the perfect bath time retreat. The jojoba, primrose and almond oils moisturise your body while the fragrant spices relax and sooth your mind.

£5.00 250ml, thesanctuary.co.uk;

Radox Herbal Vapour Therapy Bath Salts:

Contains Eucalyptus to clear the head and mind, and mineral rich salts that ease tired and aching muscles. Simply sprinkle in and soak away aches and pains in a dreamy dip.

£1 from Boots, Sainsburys, Tesco and chemists;

Decleor Relaxing Bath Gel:

Helps relaxation and promotes a sense of wellbeing by eliminating impurities and neutralising the effects of hard water giving you a soothing soak.

£21.00, decleor.co.uk;

Lush Luxury Bath Melt:

This luxury bath melt will help to send you off to dream land with its blend of lavender, chamomile, jasmine, sandalwood and ginger, while the cocoa butter and almond oil moisturise.

£3.15 for 112g, Lush.co.uk;

Simple Relaxing Bath Milk:

For those sensitive skins, simple’s bath milk cleans, soothes and moisturises your skin with no harsh chemicals.

£2.00 for 400ml, simple.co.uk;

Laura Mercier Crème Honey Bath :

Makes a foamy bath full of rich bubbles to leave you relaxed and calm while the shea butter and vanilla extracts leave your skin velvety smooth.

£31, lauramercier.com

Night Cremes

Michelle Allan for Independent

1// Nivea Regenerating Night Crème

Contains organically grown Aloe Vera, which is renowned for its rejuvenating properties, and Argan oil, a natural anti-oxidant, both work together to sooth and replenish skin overnight.

£5.10, www.nivea.co.uk

2// Olay Anti-wrinkle Sensitive Night Creme

All dies, perfumes and oils have been removed from this product so it’s great for sensitive skin. It provides deep hydration and gently reduces the appearance of wrinkles while you sleep.  

£21.95, http://www.olay.co.uk

3// L’Oreal Youth Code Rejuvenating Anti-wrinkle Night Crème

Designed to promote youthful behaviour by improving cell activity within the skin, Youth code aids in skin recovery at night, helping skin look and act more youthful.

£15.99, http://www.loreal-paris.co.uk

Estee Lauder Time Zone Night Anti-Wrinkle Crème

The powerful formula including amino acid and Tri-hyaluronic night complex, work together to replenish collagen and combat night time dehydration to promote radiant younger looking skin.

 £52, www.esteelauder.co.uk

5// Origins Make a Difference Night Skin Rejuvenating Gel Crème

Packed with vitamins, minerals and anti-oxidants it replenishes skin and gets rid of old cells, leaving the skin protected and ready to fight free radicles throughout the day.

£32, http://www.origins.co.uk

6// No.7 Restore and Renew Night Crème

Has an intensive nourishing complex with an optimum blend of lipids which immediately start moisturising skin to strengthen its resilience to future dryness.

£23 http://www.boots.com

Freaky is finally in fashion

By Michelle Allan

Fetish wear has finally crossed over in to mainstream, causing a stir on this seasons catwalks. The weird and wonderful however does not stop there with PVC and latex effects transcending on to the make-up and beauty scene. The industry has finally tapped in to a trend which has grown in popularity over the past few years brought to the forefront of press attention with the rise of lady Gaga and her prosthetic horns, blue lipstick and Cruella Deville hair styles.

Spring and summer make up looks are a mixture of high shine PVC doll looks, natural skin and some heavy lips inspired by the 50's and 90's pop art. Most of the definition is concentrated on the eyes with a glossy wax effect on the lids.

In New York Alexander Wang’s catwalk was dominated by natural skin and nude lips with smudged greasy looking eyes. Black eyeliner was smudged upwards around the eyelid, away from the eye lash line, and outwards. Gloss was then applied to the inner corners of the eye to produce a wet look.

Jason Wu Jason Wu used bold red lips for his New York fashion show. This was combined with natural coloured gloss on the eyelids and a thin liquid line above the lashes to make them look thicker. To finish the look black mascara was applied to thicken the lashes.

London’s catwalks stuck with the strong lip trend with ASHISH Georgina Grayham using Black lipstick to create a strong look. The eyelids were pressed with pink glitter which was dragged below the eye from the outer corners to the middle of the eye, this was then sealed with Vaseline and lashes were covered with black mascara.

Mary Katrantzou kept her makeup looks simple using strong pastel colours on the lips. Greens, blues, pinks and purples were intensified by using white underneath to bring out a strong pastel shade.

In Milan the out there trends took it to a new level. Fendi used gold and silver leaf dotted on the eye lids and brows to create shiny metallic look. This was combined with nude skin and lips to create a look fit for space.

Paris catwalks followed this out there trend with Minx nail foils stuck to the eyebrows of models with nude faces. While Mugler used glitter on the eyebrows to create a high shine effect and mixed this with neon glitter green and yellow lips.

The Beauty industry has also adopted the rubber trend as one of its own releasing new beauty products and treatments regularly.

Illamasqua have released their ‘Theatre of Nameless’ collection which has a new kinky rubber look finish to their chip resistant hard wearing nail varnish. There are four colours to choose from ‘Kink’ which is green, ‘Vice’ is a deep red, ‘Faux Pas’ comes in Purple and ‘Taint’ a deep brown. The caps of the bottles are also rubber rather than a hard plastic making them easy to work with.

Bliss have started to sell a ‘Fabulous Skin-Reviving Mask’ which clams the skin and evens out its tone and texture. Its main ingredient is Algin, which is an extract from Algae, this helps the mask to set in to a rubberized mask and allows for absorption of all the other ingredients. Seaweed is notoriously porous and draws out impurities from your skin whilst exfoliating, Billberry another ingredient soothes and nourishes and the vitamin C brightens the skin.

So this summer embrace the inner Freak.

New year, New Skin.

Michelle Allan


A guide to how to look after your skin in the new year.

We start the new year with resolutions, undoubtedly broken half way through, but this year why don’t you start with a new skincare regime and stick to it. Around the winter our skin really does suffer, all that time out fighting the cold, wind and rain combined with the late nights and early mornings; not forgetting the piled on make-up and alcohol consumption leaves skin dry and dehydrated.

The skin is one of the largest organs of the body, it gives us clues to its own health and reflects the health of other body systems this is why it is important to keep it healthy. It varies in thickness on different parts of the body, for instance it is thinnest on the eyelids and lips and thickest on the soles of your feet and palms of your hands, it is imperative to take care of the skin on your face because it is light and sensitive. The skin can be divided in to two parts the epidermis and dermis.

The epidermis is the surface layer of the skin these are the outermost skin cells which are constantly lost through wear and tear. There is no blood supply to these layers and so all the cells are dead. The only living cells are those right at the bottom where nourishment is provided by a blood supply from the dermis. The cells in the bottom layer keep producing daughter cells which are pushed upward towards the surface where they die and are rubbed off. The epidermis consists of five layers which all do different things. They let the sun through giving us Vitimin D, produce Keratin a protein that protects the skin, and they contain the pigment Melanin which gives us our skin colour. The Dermis is under the Epidermis, this is called the true skin it contains blood vessels, nerves, hair follicles, sweat glands and oil glands. It is made up of elastic connective tissues and has the main job of holding the skin in shape, giving it the ability to resume its original position that’s why it will return to shape straight after you pinch it.

Daily you should cleanse, tone and moisturise using specific products for your skin. All brands cater for different skin types and it will say what type it is on the bottle. Do not wash your face with soap or baby wipes these will push dirt in to your pores and clog them, causing spots. Start by getting some cotton pads with a dab of cleanser applied to them. Use this to cleanse your face, using warm water to open the pores and get all the dirt out. Next wipe your face with a plain cotton pad soaked in warm water. Now to tone, use cold water on the pad, add some toner and wipe your face, the cold water will close the pores ready for the last step, moisturising. This should be done every morning and night, never go to bed with your make-up on and always moisturise to protect your skin.

Weekly you should give yourself one or two facials. First cleanse your face by putting boiling water in a bowl, put your face over the steam and cover your head and bowl with a towel let the steam gently open up your porse. If you have oily skin put a few drops of Tea Tree oil in the water, for sensitive or dry skin try some rose oil and for combination skin try witch Hazel. Next step in our facial is exfoliation. If your skin is dry, exfoliate twice a week to rid the layer of dead cells. If you have oily skin exfoliate once a week but be gentle if you are too rough it could cause your sebaciouse glands to produce more oil to protect the skin. If you have combination skin exfoliate your whole face once a week and exfoliate just your dry patches on the second facial of the week. After your exfoliation you should apply a face mask. For oily skin you should use a tea tree clay mask apply it generously to the whole of your face and let it dry for 10 minuets before washing it off. Dry skin reacts better to a moisturising face mask that doesn’t dry try a Sink in Vitamin E mask. An Aloe Vera or chamomile and rose protective mask would be best for sensitive skin. For combination skin you should use the tea tree mask on the T-zone and a moisturising mask on the dry cheeks. Lastly to complete your facial moisturise using a cream specifically designed for your skin type and always apply in an upward motion.

Skin Type:
Normal - Has an even healthy colour over the face and neck, Your skin has a smooth texture without blemishes. This skin is the easiest to look after, you can use products for normal skin.

Dry - Generally even colour although cheeks are prone to redness. The texture is usually a little rough and uneven. It has small pores and is not producing enough of its own oil to keep the cells moisturised. For this skin you should gently exfoliate twice a week and use heavy moisturisers.

Dehydrated - If your skin is rougher and pinker than normal you are dehydrated. People who are dehydrated think they have dry skin but that is not the case. It is not getting the moisture from inside so drink more water.

Oily - The surface of your skin is shiny from sebum or oil.The colour is dull and pores are larger making you prone to spots and black heads. You should use products specifically for oily skin that are not greasy.

Combination - Combination skin is a mixture of different skin types. Usually people with combination skin have an oily t-zone which is your forehead and nose and dry cheeks. You can buy products for combination skin but you should use different face masks on the different skin types.

Sensitive - Skin is red and sore, you may develop irregular patches of dryness and irritation, any skin type can be sensitive. Skin changes every several years so you may gain or lose sensitivities during your life. You should use products made specifically for sensitive skin that are not perfumed.

Handy tips to survive Uni

Michelle Allan



So, here you are at the beginning of your university life. Time to make a new start, a new you and here are a few tips to help you cope on your way.

1. Hung over from Fresher’s week?

To recover quickly from the night before, set your alarm for an hour before you are due to get up for lectures. When the dreaded alarm rings take a paracetamol with a glass of water containing a vitamin tablet replenishing any lost vitamins and minerals (Berocca £4.99, is preferred by many). Go back to sleep for an hour but, don’t forget to reset your alarm. For breakfast have bread, butter and golden syrup this replenishes potassium, sodium and fructose speeding up recovery. Avoid coffee as it’s a diuretic and will cause further dehydration. Also avoid aspirin and fizzy drinks as they may upset the stomach.

2. Running late with Bed Head?

For quick and easy clean looking hair, spray it with a dry shampoo (Batiste £3.04, is the best, it caters for all hair colours so dark hair won’t be left looking white). Part your hair and apply some volumising powder to your roots and massage in to your scalp with your finger tips giving automatic lift without having to back comb (GOT2B Schwarzkopf £4.07, is good and affordable). Now give your hair a good brush out and if more volume is needed back comb the roots and give it a quick squirt of hairspray (Silvikrin £1,01, is great and cheap). If your ends are looking a little dry, rub a dab of straightening serum (Pantene Pro-V ice shine serum £4.51) in your palms and run through the ends of your hair.

3. Looking pale and tired?

The eyes are the main focal point of the face if they look sore, and puffy your whole demeanour will look tired and run down. So start by placing either an ice cold slice of cucumber or a cold camomile teabag to the eyelids for 10 – 15 minutes, this will brighten the whites of the eyes and lesson puffiness. Now cleanse your skin by mashing up a cucumber and brushing it on your face leave for 10 minutes, cleaning and closing pores, then rinse it off. Lastly smother your face with a daily moisturiser (Oil of Olay complete care £7.65, is a good affordable option and also contains SPF 15 protecting your skin from the sun).

4. Want to hide behind make-up?

Sometimes when we look tired it is easy to pile the make-up on, but this can make you look worse. Simply apply some liquid foundation to the face and some concealer under the eyes and across the cheek bones, making your face look brighter (Bourjois brush concealer £7.49, is perfect). Next lightly brush a bronzing powder on top and finish with mascara and lipstick. If you don’t have time to apply a whole face of make-up just pop on a red lipstick this will pull the attention to the lips and make you look sassy and natural. Lastly to keep your make-up on all day give your face a quick squirt of hairspray.

5. Hand Bag essentials:

A few items can help you get through those hard days, first a small tin of Vaseline (Lip therapy with Aloe vera £1.39) this always comes in handy in the winter to combat chapped dry hands and lips, and in the summer to protect the skin, it will also stop frizzy hair if you pull a little through the ends with your palms. Nail varnish not only helps with chipped nails but also stops a run in your tights and it can reinforce a loose button by applying it to the breaking thread. Plasters are a must have in any bag, they can help with minor accidents, also if you have a unravelling hem use a plaster to hold it in place, and if your shoes are flopping on and off you can stick a plaster or two in the heel.

6. Other Quick tips:

These quick and easy tips will help you while on the move. If your hair is limp half way through the day use some hand sanitizer on the roots to remove the grease. Forgotten your lip gloss? Use some honey, not only will your lips be shiny but the natural ingredients will leave your lips smooth. For an important date curl your eyelashes, you can use a spoon by placing the concave side on your eye allowing your eyelashes to curl upwards around it. If you’re in need for a Smokey eye and have no make-up you can light a match, blow it out and when its cooled down drag it across your eyelid for a Smokey line, the matchstick boxes scratchy strip also works as a emery board.

*all products can be purchased at Boots, prices may vary: www.boots.com

DIY Winter Wonders

Michelle Allan



With the approaching winter wind the nightmares of chapped hands, dry lips and limp hair will inevitably make an unwanted reappearance. Skin that is unprotected from the harsh cold needs a bit of pampering and with Christmas just around the corner who can afford to visit a salon? Not me! That is why I have been in search of easy treatments you can do from home using products that are, most probably, lying in the back of your cupboard.

Hair
Hair gets dry and tangled during this season so a good conditioning treatment is needed.

Try the egg conditioner by mixing an egg yolk and teaspoon of olive oil together, add a cup of warm water. Apply this to your hair, wrap in cling film and leave for ten minutes before rinsing well.

Face

Your face takes the brunt of the harsh weather during the winter as it is exposed to the elements try soothing it with a facial.

To start, cleanse the skin with a big bowl full with boiling water, bend your head over the bowl and cover it with a towel so there are no gaps. Allow the steam to cleanse your face.

Next, mix together 1 tablespoon of brown sugar and 1 teaspoon of almond oil. This paste is the perfect exfoliator, rub it lightly over the face to get rid of dead skin cells.

Lastly to complete your facial mix three ounces of barley flour and one ounce of honey. Beat this up with the white of an egg until hard. Apply this mask to your face and leave it on for as long as possible. Finish off the whole facial by moisturizing.

Hands

Hands dry out and get chapped easily, it is very important to take good care of them during the winter months.

Soothe chapped hands by washing them with oatmeal instead of soap. Afterwards dry your hands carefully and rub them with a little dry oatmeal.

For a great hand moisturiser, mix equal parts of glycerin, lemon juice and rose water. Fill a bottle with the mixture and leave it near the hand basin, every time you wash your hands apply a drop to them and rub it in.

To get shiny nails and healthy cuticles combine two teaspoons of salt, two teaspoons of caster oil and one teaspoon of wheat germ oil, pour the mixture in to a bottle and apply to the nails, leave it on for five minutes.

Lips

Lips need to be kissably smooth with Christmas is just around the corner and all that mistletoe nocking about.

To exfoliate your lips, get an old toothbrush and apply a little petroleum jelly to the bristles. Now, gently rub the toothbrush bristles over your lips for a silky smooth appearance.

To make a great lip gloss put a little petroleum jelly in a microwavable bowl and melt it. In a separate bowl mix together one teaspoon of water and a powdered drink mix of your choice until it is completely dissolved and then add some food colouring. Add it to the petroleum jelly and dispense in to a pot. This will also make a great stocking filler.

Body

On those cold days nothing is better than pampering yourself in a warm bath.
Take a handful of the ingredients of your choice (listed below), wrap it in a square of muslin cloth and secure with a rubber band. Now it’s ready to use in your bath, for a better look use ribbon around the band.

Rose: Lifts spirits Lavender: Relaxes
Camomile: Calms and soothes Rosemary: Clears the mind

Responsibility deal isn’t very responsible.

Michelle Allan


There has been so much hype surrounding alcohol and the dangers of its consumption lately in the news with six leading health organisations refusing to sign up to the governments new “responsibility deal in England”. The full details of the deal have not been unveiled yet but there has been some speculation on what changes it may entail for the alcohol industry. Among these assumptions is the rise of the cost of alcohol, taking cheap alcohol off the shelves, putting health warnings on bottles and more education on the effects of alcohol given to schools.

Health professionals say this will only promote alcohol and increase the problem, but studies show these sorts of measures have worked in other countries such as France. But will these measures stop alcohol abuse here in the UK?

According to the NHS website ‘Student life can seem to revolve around alcohol, with the student bar and local pubs often the centre of the college social scene’ so, who better to test this theory on than you? I spoke to a number of students around the UK as well as a detention officer, who deals with alcohol abuse daily and got similar responses from each of them.

Four out of five students don’t know the recommended safe limits of alcohol. This is 21 units of alcohol a week for men but no more that 4 units in a single day, and 14 units of alcohol a week for women but no more than 3 units in a single day. Many of you guys didn’t even know how much a unit of alcohol was and so couldn’t give a rough guide of how much you drink a week. Basically a unit is 10ml of pure alcohol or one unit per shot. There are roughly 9 units in a bottle of 12% wine and 3 units in a pint of premium strength lager. Another way to calculate how many units are in a drink is the percentage is the amount of units in a litre, so a 6% beer will have 6 units per litre, two pints go in to a litre which makes a pint 3 units.

Despite the lack of knowledge we students have on our alcohol units the majority of people that are taken in to a detention sell overnight for alcohol abuse are in their late twenties to early thirties. “There is no point in educating the people who come in to prisons for being drunk, most of them are well aware of the risks and don’t care. I see the same faces day in and day out” a detention officer told me.

Most students don’t class themselves as binge drinkers but social drinkers instead, and don’t feel that their drinking has become a problem. The price of alcohol wouldn’t make a difference to their drinking habits at all and if the price increased even more it wouldn’t stop them from going out and having a drink. “The problem with this idea is that the people I have to deal with don’t care about the cost most of them are alcoholics and steal the alcohol, they will get it anyway they can” the source said. It seems that this part of the governments ‘responsibility deal’ won’t help to stop drinking either.

The other hypothesis, that the government plan to put safety warnings on bottles, also had no effect on the interviewed students. Most said it would be annoying but wouldn’t stop them from drinking. They all said that they are aware of the dangers of alcohol already and it doesn’t affect how much they drink and neither will a health label. Many brought up the safety warnings on cigarette packets and said that didn’t stop them from smoking but the overexposure to health warnings desensitised them to the problems they can cause.

“It's frustrating for us detention officers” my source told me “you can’t help someone who doesn’t want to be helped, everyone is offered treatment but 90% of the time they don’t want it. Our jobs are put on the line every time someone comes in intoxicated it is the highest risk of death in a custody sweet, and still people continue to do the same thing”.

All in all it is understandable that the health organisations did not sign the ‘responsibility deal’ as it seems that it is giving alcohol more publicity and the deterrents will not work.

Body modifications are increasing Body dismorphic disorder.

Michelle Allan



People have been unhappy with their looks for years. Since the advances and availability of surgery it has become a trend to change these dissatisfying natural features. But has it gone to far?

People who suffer from Body Dysmorphic disorder are excessively concerned and pre occupied by a perceived defect in his or her physical features. This unhappiness can cause psychological distress, sever depression, anxiety and complete social isolation. The need to fit in to the norm and present themselves as the idea of perfection is becoming harder, it seems, with every new trend.

Fashion icon Lady Gaga has been seen sporting flesh coloured spikes on her face and shoulders that look like subdermal implants in her new video ‘Born this way’ and on Jay Leno. This is apparently the latest trend in body modification in which metal shapes or even items of jewellery are implanted under the skin. It is questionable whether these are convincing prosthetics or surgically implanted.

She claimed on Gayle King’s US chat show that ‘They’ve been there this whole time but I waited until I’d put Born This Way out for you to see them’. Fans have questioned her new look and the hypothesis they have come up with is that she is referring to a new race of humanity in which there is no discrimination and equality for all is prevalent in society. Another theory is that it is a tribute to Alexander McQueen who’s eccentric style inspired Lady Gaga in the spring summer catwalk for 2010.

Lady Gaga’s new look has been seen for years in magazines like Bizarre with articles further back than 2008 on Dennis Avner the human ‘tiger’ and Erik Sprague the Lizard man who have now found fame for their unusual looks. The question is with all this publicity surrounding subdermal implants will it become the norm and soon the desired look?

Facial piercing, branding and scaring have been popular throughout the years in primitive and modern cultures. Some tribes use body modifications as a right of passage. Today we see these piercings and modifications amongst our culture but they serve as an aesthetic purpose. These looks, which have become the norm, would have been frowned upon years ago however, now they have become almost desirable.

The constant development of body modification forces people to conform to the desired look and makes perfection harder to reach. People are fighting to fit in and this constant need results in plastic surgery and an increase in body dysmorphia.

It’s one thing to change your nose, get a facelift or get breast augmentation surgery if you are unhappy, but to implant objects under your skin to reach an, as some would say, unnatural perfection is a step to far. It seems we are travelling down a road of which there is no return, the desired look becomes more and more eccentric and further away from our ancestors. Could this be seen as evolution or merely self-mutilation?

Elizabeth Taylor

By Michelle Allan


27th February 1932 – 23rd March 2011

The legend that is Dame Elizabeth Rosemond Taylor, well known for her acting talent, glamour and beauty and publicised private life including 8 marriages and several near death experiences. She was a keen social activist campaigning for AIDS awareness research and cure.

Elizabeth Taylor was born in Hampstead in London. She was the second child of Frances Lenn, an art dealer, and Sara Viola Warmbrodt, an actress known as ‘Sara Sothern’. Both her parents were Americans who resided in London.

Elizabeth Taylor was born with a rare mutation which some call Alexandria's Genesis which gave the pupils of her eyes a trademark violet and gave her a double row of eyelashes. This doll faced beauty helped her enter Hollywood.

Taylor showed great potential in the arts at an early age, starting dance lessons at the age of three. When her family moved back to Los Angeles California in 1939 just before World War II her career started to take off.

In America her beauty did not go unrecognised and family friends were soon urging Taylor’s mother to put her in for screen tests. The family soon started meeting well known members of the film industry two being Cheever Cowden chairman at Universal Pictures and Louis B. Mayer head of MGM, both wanted to sign her up. When Cheever heard that Louis was interested in Taylor he decided to sign her quickly without giving her a screen test and so she signed a contract with Universal.

Her first film, recorded at the age of nine was ‘There’s One Born Every Minute’ (1942) released when she was ten. Universal dropped her contract after that reportedly saying that she had nothing special and she was soon picked up by MGM. Taylor made several films with MGM but fame came when she starred in the smash hit movie ‘National Velvet’ (1944).

Throughout the 1940s and 1950s Taylor starred in film after film with MGM and her career grew. She won her first Academy Award for best female actress in 1960 for her role in ‘Butterfield 8’. In 1963 she became the first movie actress to receive a whopping $1,000,000 for her role in ‘Cleopatra’. In 1966 she received her second Academy Award for best actress for her role in ‘Who’s afraid of Virginia Woolf’. In total she appeared in 75 productions her career spanning over 60 years. She even produced the world’s best selling celebrity fragrance manufactured by Elizabeth Arden 'White Diamonds' in 1991. It was the first to have any prominent success and was named after her love of jewels.

Taylor married 8 times during her lifetime, the first in 1950 to Conrad Hilton which lasted nine months. She had four children and became a grandmother at 39. She died of heart failure at 1.29am pacific time on 23rd March 2011 at the age of 79. She was succeeded by her four children, ten grandchildren, and four great-grandchildren and will be sourly missed by her devoted public.

Ethnic Make-up

Michelle Allan



Historically ethnic women and minority skins have always found it almost impossible to find beauty products to compliment their skins. But now it is easier to find foundations for darker skin tones that compliment the natural colour.

Thankfully companies have realised there is a huge gap in the market, with over 15% of make-up counters in Selfridges now catering for darker skins. Companies have finally started to produce blushers, eye shadows and lipsticks that suit darker skins. More importantly they have started manufacturing foundations with enough pigmentation to smooth away imperfections and leave a natural glow.

Finding foundation and concealers to suit darker skin is extremely hard, black skin includes a range of skin tones, if the colour is wrong you end up with an ashy grey look. Generally the rule is that lighter brown skin has a yellowish undertone whereas a darker brown skin has a combination of yellow and red. Foundation for darker tones must not be too pink or contain too much titanium dioxide; these will give the skin an ashen look.

Dark tones don’t seem to suffer from dry skin as lighter tones do. Darker skin reflects light differently giving off a kind of luminosity; this does not mean it is oily. Excess shine can be controlled by using oil free bases and powders. New light reflecting pigments in some foundations and powders will also help cover the shine, but be careful of very matt bases as they can turn the skin grey.

Foundation should be tested on lighter skin first if you suffer from hyper pigmentation. You should choose a colour in-between the pigmentations. There are concealers that cover darker spots, these should be matched to your normal skin tone and worn under the foundation. It is important to remember that your skin tone changes with the seasons, you may need a darker foundation in the summer than in the winter. To set the foundation, use either a translucent or bronzing powder and if you’re out for a night on the town spray a little hairspray over it.

If you have dark skin you can pull off stronger make-up looks than light skin. You can get away with wearing dark colours that only make light skins look paler. Bronze, shimmery beiges and deep browns, as well as olive and emerald green, sapphire blue, plum and pastel shades can be good eye colours. Metallic’s compliment the natural luminosity of dark skin, while black mascara and eyeliner highlights the eyelashes. Warm light brown peach to cinnamon tones will soften and define cheeks. Deep berry shades of lipsticks suit darker skins perfectly. However, remember that while dramatic colours suit your colouring, apply the makeup lightly to keep it looking fresh and up to date, also it is either heavy eyes or lips, never both.

When shopping for make-up that suits your complexion it is important to shop around. Big department stores such as Selfridges, Debenhams and House of Frasier have counters which cater for darker skin tones. Some of these are Becca, Bobby Brown, Fashion fair, Iman, Illamasqua, Mac, Black up and K Beverly Knights new brand, which came out in September. Most of these counters offer free advice, foundation fittings and sometimes make-overs, use them. Don’t buy the first product you try, as you may find something better by another brand. Don’t buy without checking the foundation in daylight, as the lighting may alter the tone, walk out of the shop and check it still looks good. Request samples so you can try at home before spending your student loan. If you like a foundation that you tried look for it on-line as it may be cheaper.

Big brands such as Dior, Estee Lauder and Clinique are starting to tap in to the dark skincare market and are currently working on new ranges like Lancôme’s Colour Id range. These brands will be a little more expensive but can be tested in store with a make-up artist.

Long-time brands like MaxFactor, Maybelline, L’Oreal Paris and Revlon have also started to cater for darker skins although their range only goes to a dark cappuccino, and these are hard to find. A new brand however has emerged alongside these older brands called Sleek this is manufactured specifically for dark skins. These brands are cheaper than the others but you can’t try them in store or get advice. They are good if you’re already familiar with your colour and don’t need to check your shade. This can also be said for brands which are currently only on sale on-line like Mary Kay and Black Opal.

Finding Foundation

Michelle Allan


Finding foundation and concealers to suit darker skin is extremely hard, black skin includes a range of skin tones, if the colour is wrong you end up with an ashy grey look. The same thing still stands for light skins white skin tones include pink or yellow and if the tone is to dark you may end up looking orange. Generally the rule is that lighter brown skin has a yellowish undertone whereas a darker brown skin has a combination of yellow and red, very pale skin has pink undertones and medium to tanned skin has yellow undertones. Foundation for darker tones must not be too pink or contain too much titanium dioxide; these will give the skin an ashen look.

Lighter skins do sometimes suffer from dryness; this can easily be combated by using a heavy cream underneath the foundation or using a moisturising mouse foundation and avoiding powders. Dark tones don’t seem to suffer from dry skin as lighter tones do. Darker skin reflects light differently giving off a kind of luminosity; this does not mean it is oily. Excess shine can be controlled by using oil free bases and powders. New light reflecting pigments in some foundations and powders will also help cover the shine, but be careful of very matt bases as they can turn the skin grey.

Foundation should be tested on lighter skin first if you suffer from hyper pigmentation. You should choose a colour in-between the pigmentations. There are concealers that cover darker spots, these should be matched to your normal skin tone and worn under the foundation. It is important to remember that your skin tone changes with the seasons; you may need a darker foundation in the summer than in the winter. To set the foundation, use either a translucent or bronzing powder and if you’re out for a night on the town spray a little hairspray over it.

When shopping for make-up that suits your complexion it is important to shop around. Big department stores such as Selfridges, Debenhams and House of Frasier have counters which cater for darker skin tones as well as light. Some of these are Becca, Bobby Brown, Fashion fair, Iman, Illamasqua, Mac, Black up and K Beverly Knights new brand, which came out in September 2010. Most of these counters offer free advice, foundation fittings and sometimes make-over’s, use them. Don’t buy the first product you try, as you may find something better by another brand. Don’t buy without checking the foundation in daylight, as the lighting may alter the tone, walk out of the shop and check it still looks good. Request samples so you can try at home before spending your student loan. If you like a foundation that you tried look for it on-line as it may be cheaper.

If you have dark skin you can pull off stronger make-up looks than light skin. You can get away with wearing dark colours that only make light skins look paler. Bronze, shimmery beiges and deep browns, as well as olive and emerald green, sapphire blue, plum and pastel shades can be good eye colours. Metallic’s compliment the natural luminosity of dark skin, Warm light brown peach to cinnamon tones will soften and define cheeks. Deep berry shades of lipsticks suit darker skins perfectly. Lighter skins should go for light natural pastel shades pinks and light golds and silvers compliment the undertones and don’t make skin look paler. Peach or pinks should be used as a blusher on the apples of the cheeks. Blood red lipsticks can be worn to give a striking look on paler skins as well as pink shades. Black mascara and eyeliner highlight the eyelashes of all skin types also it is important to remember it is either heavy eyes or lips, never both.

Big brands such as Dior, Estee Lauder and Clinique are starting to tap in to the dark skincare market and are currently working on new ranges like Lancôme’s Colour Id range. These brands will be a little more expensive but can be tested in store with a make-up artist.

Long-time brands like MaxFactor, Maybelline, L’Oreal Paris and Revlon have also started to cater for darker skins although their range only goes to a dark cappuccino, and these are hard to find. A new brand however has emerged alongside these older brands called Sleek this is manufactured specifically for dark skins. These brands are cheaper than the others but you can’t try them in store or get advice. They are good if you’re already familiar with your colour and don’t need to check your shade. This can also be said for brands which are currently only on sale on-line like Mary Kay and Black Opal.

LoveBox Festival

Michelle Allan



London’s biggest and most flamboyant festival is taking over Victoria Park on 15th 16th and 17th July bringing epic performances and charged sets to East London. It will be the ninth LoveBox festival following its conception in 2003. Formulated out of the love of music variation, Tom and Andy aka Groove Armada decided to form a new winning festival. LoveBox has emerged out of the dance culture to bring fresh new exciting sounds to the ears and feet of festival goers along with some good old classics.

This year is set to be a festival of epic proportions with a hectic line up it is set to be a party like no other. Artists gracing Victoria Park include Snoop Dog, Scissor Sistors, Beardyman, Jessy J, Katy B, Beth Ditto, Blondie and Robyn.

Over the eater bank holiday LoveBox stages a three day takeover at Village underground, a hub for creative endeavour and artistic collaboration, in the East end. Proceedings kicked off on Thursday the 21st April with a heavy bass night presenting breaking acts from warp records such as Hudson Mohawke and Rustie. Friday was the tracksuit party a night of some serious Hip hop from artists like Wookie and D-Bridge to flex the vocal cords to. With Saturday came a heavy dose of disco house brought by Andy Butler, founder of Hercules and Love affair. If this three day takeover is anything to go by the LoveBox festival is not one to be missed!

Student Price Pampering

Michelle Allan



It is important to take time out for yourself to relax especially after exams and coursework deadlines, and what better way to do this than by spoiling yourself with a spa treatment. As we all know beauty treatments are an essential part of maintaining a healthy body and good skin. However, the expense makes it hard to keep up a pampering regime, especially on a student’s budget. But there is a way that you can pamper yourself regularly at a fraction of the price.

Top quality treatments are on offer to the public in luxurious hair and beauty salons and drop in nail bars. These services are provided in hundreds of beauty schools and colleges across the UK. All treatments are carried out by students trained in the industry’s latest techniques by experts resulting in professional treatments at prices which are hard to beat.

Hairdressing, make-up, Beauty and holistic therapy students need models to provide extensive practice to gain competence as a vital part of their training. So you can lend a freshly manicured hand to students like yourselves and the future of the beauty industry, while pampering yourself. The services are provided under the strictest supervision of lecturers and are only performed after the student has undergone training and practice on each other. All treatments on offer are carried out according to industry standards giving us the opportunity to take advantage of a wide range of usually expensive luxurious treatments.

They offer everything from waxing, manicures, pedicures, brow and lash tinting and perming, to facials including body treatments, tanning, make-up, acrylic nails and not forgetting hairdressing treatments. All is available for a tenth of the price. Some of these salons also offer the latest technical advances in skin care like non surgical facelifts, microdermabrasion, laser hair removal, ‘skin light’ and even body lifts. These are all new highly sought after treatments available to all. There are also saunas, steam rooms, tanning booths and gyms in some of these salons for you to use.

You can get a 75 minute massage, manicure and pedicure, body cleanse and facial for under £30.00, and no I’m not forgetting a zero. Although bare in mind that prices may vary in each college salon, and for the level of therapist you may book with.

There is a tiny downside though, it’s not a huge deal, but treatments are usually given in a large room in curtained areas rather than a single beauty room, the treatments may take a little longer than in a spa, and appointments are only available Monday to Friday. But who cares about that when you’re being pampered without a pull on your purse strings?

Some places you may want to book in to:
London College of Beauty Therapy 0207 208 1302
East London Beauty Academy 0208 981 2558
South Thames College 0208 918 7075
Hammersmith and West London College, Voila 0207 565 1265
London College of Fashion 0207 514 7400
London School Of Beauty, Esthetique 0207 580 0355
Lewisham College, T’ien 0208 320 2901

Dont forget the SPF!

Michelle Allan




With the temperature soar lately many of us students have been relaxing in parks and generally taking our skins in to the forbidden outdoors. During the winter we have been like hermits inside in the warm cooped up away from the outside...studying of course. As lovely and unusual as it is relaxing in the sun, it could be damaging our skin.

A recent survey by SunSmart says that 9 out of 10 people in the UK could be putting their lives at risk by not using sun screen correctly. In fact in the UK 42 percent of people do not reapply sunscreen every 2 hours or do not apply any at all. Many students apply sunscreen while on holiday but simply forget to apply it whilst at home despite the fact that the sun in the UK is just as damaging. Elsa Buchanan 22 London Metropolitan student from France proved this theory “I don’t usually wear sunscreen in London, the sun doesn’t feel hot enough to burn me.”

Sunscreen is a product that reflects some of the suns harmful UV radiation from the skin exposed to sunlight and thus protects us from sunburn. 46 percent of people are confused by what SPF actually means and think that SPF 30 offers double the protection of SPF 15, the lowest protection advised to wear. This is a common misapprehension and in fact SPF 30 only filters out 3 percent more harmful UV rays.

Many students interviewed used SPF 10-12 which does not give sufficient protection from the sun at all, even if re-applied hourly. Charlotte Sundburg a journalism student at London Metropolitan University said “I only wear sunscreen sometimes if I know I’m going to be outdoors all day. If I remember I usually apply sun factor 12 a few times in a day.”

The SPF is a libratory measure of the effectiveness of the sunscreen. SPF is not directly related to the time of solar exposure but the amount and so must be re-applied no matter how high the SPF is to avoid sunburn. Caroline Cerny, Cancer Research UK’s SunSmart manager, said “It’s really concerning that people don’t know how to use sunscreen properly. Sunscreen only works if you put enough on. You can’t make up for a thin layer by increasing the factor you use”.

There are two types of harmful UV rays that we must protect ourselves from. UVB is responsible for the majority of sunburns and UVA penetrates deeper in to the skin causing ageing. There is also another UV ray called UVC which is even more harmful but thankfully we are protected from that by the ozone layer, for now. Again many students including Kelly Jones 27 drama student at Central argue “my mum never wore sun protection when she was my age and she has great skin and hasn’t got cancer”.

The fact is that when our parents were our age the ozone layer was a lot thicker and so protected us more than it does now and unfortunately melanomas can lie dormant showing no signs for years. Sunburn is a clear sign of sun damage to the skin cells DNA from UV rays. Damaged DNA can cause cells to start growing out of control and this can lead to skin cancer. Getting a painful sunburn just once every two years can triple the risk of a melanoma, which is the most serious type of skin cancer.

Caroline Cerny added “Rates of the most deadly form of skin cancer, melanoma, are on the rise in the UK, so we really want people to take note of what they can do to protect themselves. Applying sunscreen regularly and generously is a start, but don’t forget to take other steps to reduce your risk as well, such as covering up with clothes, sunglasses, and spending time in the shade when the sun is at its hottest. Whatever you do, don’t let sunburn catch you out.”

So students’ great and small I urge you to remember that the sun is harmful and to protect yourselves against deadly sun damage!

Surviving Student

Michelle Allan


According to Cancer Research UK more than one in three people in the UK will develop some type of cancer during their lifetime of this 1% occur in children, teenagers and young adults up to the age of 24. The first thought when hearing the word cancer is death, but this is not always the case. In fact figures from Cancer Research UK state that if you look at all cancers combined the survival rate in women has reached 56% and in men 43%. We spoke to a survivor who not only beat cancer but also completed a university course to become a nurse during her battle.

27 year old Shelia from London was first diagnosed with cervical cancer in January 2006. “I had kept feeling unwell and constantly had cramping in my stomach, so I went to the doctors who referred me to the hospital for tests” she told me. “When they finally gave me the results and told me that I had cancerous tumours in my cervix I was distraught. It felt like my whole life turned upside down, I was so scared.”

According to the cancer research UK website healthy living does not guarantee against cancer however it douse reduce the risk of the disease. After Shelia got over the initial fear and shock of her diagnoses she became angry “I felt that it was unjust I never smoked or drank, I had only had one sexual partner, ate healthily and exercised regularly.”

“I had 4 months of radiotherapy, it was horrible I was moody and lethargic my skin felt like it had been burnt and came up in blisters, all I wanted to do was stay in bed. I was also on steroids and hormone replacement pills and got the all clear in July 2006”. Her illness made her re-evaluate her life “I always wanted to be a nurse and the help and support I received encouraged me to take the first step to fulfil my lifelong dream to become a nurse.”

Whilst she was still sick she applied to London Southbank University to become a paediatric nurse. “Unfortunately I had to defer the course for a year as the cancer returned in the Christmas of 2006. But after a bout of radiation I felt well enough again to start university in September 2007.”

She thrived at student life, “I enjoyed every minute and couldn’t wait to be fully qualified and start working.” In the third year of her course while she was on work placement at University College London hospital her six month check up came back positive for more tumours in her cervix. “They told me that one of the tumours had burst and I was rushed in to hospital for an operation. They had to remove some of my cervix and 8% of my liver; because of this it’s unlikely that I can ever have children. That hurt and made me want to continue to finish my course so I could at least help sick children.”

So she continued to study and work during her five months of chemotherapy. “I felt sick all the time, my whole body ached and I lost the use of my taste buds, that still hasn’t returned. I had loads of support from my tutors and all the hospital staff that helped me fight the pain and exhaustion to reach my goal. They spread out my shifts so I had breaks to recuperate.”

Today Shelia works as a paediatric Nurse at one of London’s leading children’s hospitals. With hard work and pure will power she passed her university degree and graduated late last year. “I had to keep going it was the choice I made, to fight. I don’t feel that it makes me a better person I’m still angry that it happened to me, I have lost my faith in god and I have depressive Emo moods sometimes. I’m happy that I am still here and I’m just thankful to my friends and everyone who gave me help and support to get where I am today."

(Name has been changed to protect sources)

Pawdecures

Michelle Allan



Many salons have experience with a difficult client, you know the one that fidgets all the way through a treatment. During a pedicure, they pull their leg away complaining the foot scrub tickles, choose the darkest colour nail polish available, and leave the therapist cleaning up nail edges with polish remover and a cotton bud.

Well we should think ourselves lucky, because many of us haven’t had a client like Madaline. It was Madaline’s birthday, and she wanted to look her best for her party later that day, so she was booked in for a ‘Pawdicure’. Yes that’s right, a ‘Pawdicure’.

‘Pawdicures’ are the new doggy treatments that have taken the nation by the collar. Otherwise known as a doggy pedicure, they will take any trained doggy therapist roughly half an hour, and salons are charging around £10- £15 for every pampered pooch. They are roughly the same as a human pedicure, apart from the fur.

This claw clipping treatment consists of a cleansing paw soak to sooth, cutting and filing the nail for a smooth finish, a massage with balm to avoid dry cracked pads and removal of fur in-between the toes to avoid infection. To finish, a coat of nail varnish is applied, or even nail art for those who enjoy a challenge. The end result is a paw fit for Crofts.

Many dog owners know foot care is important for a canine’s well being. Their paws, pads and nails need regular attention to avoid paws becoming uncomfortable, this is why it is advised they rebook and return for a ‘Pawdicure’ every six weeks.

According to Sarah Clark from Grand Union Pets, these pampering paw treatments are booked for “luxury or special occasions”. A range of owners book their dogs in for pawdicures, and they have “worked on all types of dogs” Clark said “mostly shiatsu, staffs and cavaliers.” Clark explained that everything they use is “non-toxic, and the nail varnish wears off by itself, so no remover is needed.” In fact the foot balm used to massage the paws is made from petroleum jelly, it’s great to know these pawdicures will not cause any damage. “We use OPI ‘Pawlish’ and we have red and blue to choose from” Clark added. But it’s very different from working on a human, so how does she deal with a nervous or naughty canine?

“You gently hold their paw, and if they try to pull away you have to continue to hold it,” Clark advised. “This puts them at ease and shows that they are not in any danger. It also shows that you are top dog. If you don’t and they pull away, they will think they are in charge and this would make the treatment quite difficult.” So it seems there is a lot that can be learnt from treating a canine client.

Other new treatments on the market starting to be offered to the pampered pooch’s are ‘Doga’ otherwise known as Doggy Yoga, ‘fur-lights’ or highlights for fur, as well as massage, reiki, and even blueberry facials. Perhaps this is where the future of beauty lays.

This Seasons Make-up Trend

Michelle Allan



The look for winter 2010-11, as seen on catwalks this season, is the smoky copper eye. Beiges and crèmes are back with classic lines this winter and the make-ups not far off. Natural autumn colours such as gold and brown eye shadows combined with thin liquid liner and lip gloss create a fashionista face. But do not panic girls read on and you will see it’s easy to do.

First, make sure you have the right concealer and foundation. Full coverage gives you a blank canvas to work on making the finished product look flawless.

To start with the eye, apply a white eye shadow to the brow bone and the inner corner of the eye.

Next, brush a bronze colour from the inner corner of the eye, near the eyelashes, all the way up to meet the white eye shadow and continue to the outer corner of the eye.

Then add a dark brown to the eye socket, from the mid to outer corners of the eye, drag it out in to a peak and under the eye. Now blend it all together so there are no lines.

To finish the eye, use liquid eyeliner. The line should be applied just above the eyelashes, if you find it hard do small lines and join them up slowly. It does not have to be done in one swift movement. Lastly apply the mascara.

Now gently dab a liquid highlighter across the cheek bone from under the eye all the way out to the temples. Then brush a darker colour like a bronzer under the highlighter, if you suck in your cheeks it is easy to see where the area to apply it.

Lastly smear on some lip gloss and your ready to go.

Watermelon Wonders

Michelle Allan



Lately I have come across some interesting beauty facts the biggest being the health properties of a watermelon. That’s right girlies this cheap summer fruit is not just useful laden with vodka at barbeques. Firstly it is a healthy nutritious snack and secondly it can also be used to make great home-made beauty products.

The youthful face pack:
Simply apply one cup of watermelon pulp on to your face and neck and leave it for 15 minutes. This will leave your face soft, youthful and full of vitality.

The Sunburnt face pack:
Mix together equal parts watermelon and cucumber pulp, leave it on your skin for 20 minutes. This will cool and sooth your sunburn and will also help take down the redness.

Cleanser:
Mix watermelon and fresh mint leaves together, put the mixture in to ice cube moulds and freeze. If you rub these cooling cleansing cubes over your face they clean pores and leave your face feeling soft and cleansed.

Exfoliate:
Squeeze out the juice from grated watermelon, mix the grated pulp with a pinch of gram flour, leave this on the face for 15 minutes then wash off. This is cheaper and better than any face scrub or peel.

Weird Beauty Treatments

Michelle Allan



I just couldn’t help myself from sharing my knowledge on these freaky beauty treatments with all you guys. Their quite disturbing really, well they weirded me out, for you that know me you know that’s saying a lot. I mean we have all heard of the old beauty treatments and products that historically have been used, like urine instead of bleach, Zink in face powder, etc. We have also all been told those disgusting old wives tails like period blood gets rid of pimples, and rubbing a used baby’s nappy will curl your hair, but seriously even if you believed them no one in their right mind actually tested it. But these treatments are new on the market, are being used by certain celebrities who will remain nameless, and cost an arm and a leg, literally.

The Nightingale Facial: This was first used by the geisha’s to keep their skin translucent and flawless. It involves bird poop being smeared all over you face in the hope that it will have some sort of effect other than making you vomit. Apparently it detoxifies at it dries, Nice!

The Buttial: We do love a good old facial, the normal sort, with a good cleansing, exfoliating, and a nice old mask. This treatment involves all of the above but it’s not for the cheeks on your face, no its for your bum.

The Leech: In this treatment you lay down and let hundreds of leeches suck your skin. They supposedly suck out all the toxins as well as your blood, and money. This detoxifies your body and leaves you a little woozy I would imagine.

The Beer Bath: This treatment is any man’s dream, a bath of beer. However the beer has to be warm and may have been bathed in by others, so you would have to be pretty desperate to drink it. Beer contains yeast which contains vitamins which help distress and purify your body.

The Noodle soup: This treatment speeds up your metabolic rate, helping lose weight and cleanses your body. All you have to do is lay in a bath of noodles, maybe the thought of eating after being immersed in food has an effect on the weight loss.

The Snake Massage: This is fairly self explanatory, in this treatment five to ten snakes slither all over your back. Supposedly they sooth aching muscles and help stiff joints, I must admit this one I would probably try.

The 24 Karat Gold Facial: Costs $300 for a half hour session, enough said!

The fish Pedicure: This one is pretty gross. During your pedicure you put your foot in to a tank for 10 minutes and some fish eat your dead skin. Saves on the itchy foot scrub I suppose.

The Nipple Bleach: Ouch, well we have all heard of the anal bleach, now there’s the nipple bleach. This is an idea from Japan where pink light coloured nipples are considered virginal.

Weird Beauty Products

Michelle Allan


Well we’ve had a look at the freaky beauty treatments, we may as well get even more grossed out by the products. Right here we go, be prepared to be totally weirded out!

Snail goo cream: Elicina Europe have developed a cream that is 80% snail goo, apparently it erases fine lines and smoothes the skin. The benefits of snail goo were reportedly discovered by a Chilean snail farm where all workers hands were soft and cuts healed at an amazing rate. I don’t care I’d rather stick botox in my face than put a snail on it!

Bull Semen Conditioner: This is a hair conditioner that is said to do wonders. It makes the hair shiny, smooth, and stops split ends. It sounds perfect except that it is made from Aberdeen Angus Bull semen and Katera which is a protein rich plant root. Those who have experienced semen in the hair will know it’s not a pleasant experience, but each to their own.

Breast milk soap: Yes that’s right soap made from human breast milk. It’s available in a variety of scents and has healing properties for $5 a bar. The question is why are these women giving their breast milk to make soap and not to their babies?

Placenta cream: This over priced cream is made from actual human placenta. Placenta is full of minerals, anti-oxidants and amino acids, so it works wonders on your skin. Although the fact that it involves chucking something that has just come out of a woman’s vagina on your face may be a little off-putting.

Viprodex: To be honest I’d rather shove this on my face, than the placenta. It is a cream made from snake venom, and is said to inhabit contractions of facial muscles decreasing wrinkles. Great put something that kills, like poison, on your face. You may look younger but you also, might die!